Here's the shopping list that I used in case it's helpful. Software is free to install and use so you can play with it. The new HP V6 software has electronic trans control: you can also go cheaper with Megasquirt or Fitech, but the Holley seems to do very well right in the middle. Cheap compared to MOTEC or Fuel Tech or Syvecs. Holley EFI system installation is perhaps $2K-5K range depending on how you do it, and you get what you pay for. For TBW and Power Adders it's best to go all the way with a Domnator. Holle also has good stage 1-2-3 classes, it's best to take the class before you even get started installing the system, or even before buying parts, although that seldom happens I'm sure. Holley HP system is good enough to be installed in the engine bay whereas the Terminator needs to be installed in the car. The support is great, lots f tuners everywhere to help out. the Holley EFI system has steady state targets that it trims fuel for, and there's an auto tune function as well as a learn function, but you still need to tune it, as timing, transient fueling, idle, starting, all need some tuning and you seldom get lucky. The self tuning is a little bit of a fallacy. If I had a compatible car this is the option I’d be looking at the closest. I have a 91 and unfortunately Halltech doesn’t offer a kit for the later cars. Since you have an 87, Halltech has a kit that as far as I understand is totally plug and play. There’s a few here and there but they never have offered much feedback on the kit. Downside, reviews on the company are mixed and I’ve had a hard timing finding many people running it. This system is $900 and seems like a complete package. It has the ability to control the 700R4 to some extent. In my case, almost too expensive to justify.įITech has a newer system specifically for the tpi platform that I’m super interested in. Holley is definitely the big name in self tuning ECUs, there’s a ton of support for the platform, and it’s pretty well proven at this point. I’ve also poked around on the third gen forum to see what those guys are using. While I haven’t installed one yet, I’ve been looking at aftermarket ECUs and going through their installation manuals. With MLV or TS using a wideband I recommend leaving EGO correction on, if you are using a narrow band you MUST.I’ll throw in my 2 cents since no one else has. So for years now there is still a rumor floating around that you should run without it, then enough people believe this or perhaps there are some edge situations that do work better off, so it is propagated further and never seems to die. Back with Tweak2000 or vex me, they did not support or factor in EGO correction. There are still suggestions in the manual that were written in the pre-MegaLogViewer era (2005). Does that sound reasonable to get the full throttle settings close? I am thinking to only do full throttle testing in higher two gears or top gear for this reason. Can a person simply use auto tune until you get green in most of the cell weighing and that is good for those cells?ģ I have trouble keeping the tires from spinning with full throttle first two gears. If that is true, how many times should a person use autotune to get it close. At that time how much of an rpm band around cruise 70 mph should I set at the higher afr and then how much of a taper ?Ģ I saw in at least one comment somewhere in manual to leave off all of the auto setting for acceleration and ego correction, but the VE analyze live comments said to leave these on while doing tuning? It makes sense to me to get it close first, and then go back and fine tune. I was thinking to to use 14.7 for cruise area to get the VE tables set for that and then go back later to fine tune for a bit of fuel economy. Should those be entered right away when doing the initial autotune? 1 Is there any recommendations for full throttle AFR (12.5), and then also for cruise AFR (16).
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